Short answer
Kepis and forage caps were common headgear in both armies. Identify them by shape, materials, interior construction, insignia placement, and any maker’s label, then check for signs of later reproduction. A maker’s label alone does not prove age. Labels can be added, and a firm’s name does not date a particular cap.
What the kepi was
The kepi is a cap with a flat or slightly rounded crown and a visor, or peak, in front. Civil War forage caps were kepi-style caps used for field and campaign wear. Both terms appear in period sources and in modern collecting, so check how the seller uses them. Many units wore kepis, and the styles changed over the course of the war.
Union kepis
Union kepis were generally dark blue wool. The shape of the crown and the visor changed over the war, so the style is a useful first clue. The front of the cap often carried a branch insignia: a bugle for infantry, crossed sabers for cavalry, or crossed cannons for artillery. Insignia was usually brass. Corps badges were later added to some caps. The inside usually has a sweatband and sometimes a lining, and some caps carry a maker’s label.
Confederate kepis
Confederate kepis were far more varied. They were made in grey, brown, and mixed colors, and many were homemade or made by local tailors. Some had insignia on the front, but many did not. Improvised or local insignia was common, so an unusual front device is not automatically a problem. Compare any Confederate cap with period photographs.
Insignia placement on the front
Branch insignia on a kepi was attached in one of two main ways: sewn or pinned through the cloth. Look for holes, stitch lines, or worn patches where insignia was once attached, since a missing or moved device can change how a cap is read. A cap with no insignia may have had one removed, or it may never have carried one. Both are possible.
Makers’ marks and labels
Labels sometimes appear inside the crown or on the sweatband. They can name a military clothing firm, a retailer, or a contractor. Check whether the firm was active during the Civil War, and whether it made the item type in question. Be aware that labels can be transferred, added, or copied. A label is a clue, and it is not proof of wartime use. Compare the label’s style, paper or cloth, and printing with documented examples.
Construction and materials
Look at the following together:
- Wool. Original wool should show wear consistent with age and use.
- Lining. Cotton lining was common. Synthetic lining is a warning sign.
- Sweatband. Leather or cloth sweatbands appear in period caps, depending on the maker.
- Visor. Visors may be leather or stiffened cloth. Check how the visor is attached.
- Stitching. Hand or machine stitching should match the type of construction. Machine stitching in unusual places can indicate later work.
- Thread. Modern polyester thread is a warning sign.
Signs of reproduction
Common warning signs include:
- Synthetic fabric or thread
- Modern labels or printed text that looks too sharp
- Aging that appears artificial, such as uniform staining or fading across the whole cap
- Brass insignia with a bright, modern finish
- Stitching that crosses old wear in a way that suggests recent repair
None of these signs is conclusive alone. Use them together, and compare the cap with documented examples.
Care for kepis
Store kepis flat or on a form that keeps the shape. Wool can be damaged by moths and mildew, so keep caps in a dry, ventilated space with moth protection. Avoid household cleaners on wool. For valuable or fragile pieces, consult a conservator rather than cleaning the item yourself.
Related reading
Branch insignia and rank devices are covered in Civil War military insignia and rank identification. Confederate clothing and its differences from Union issue are covered in Confederate uniforms: how to tell them apart from Union issue. For the early-war context in which many kepis were worn, see Civil War militia uniforms. Before you buy a cap, read where to buy Civil War uniforms.