Short answer
“Militia uniform” is a loose term. Early in the war, many units, both state militia and volunteers, wore clothing that their states or members had supplied, not a single regulation uniform. That clothing varied a great deal in cut, cloth, and color. Confederate militia often wore grey or butternut homespun. Union volunteers in 1861 often wore styles that look nothing like the standard issue that came later.
Militia, volunteers, and regulars
Three groups are easy to mix up:
- Regular army: the small, federal professional army. Its uniforms followed official regulations.
- State militia: citizen soldiers organized and equipped by individual states. Some militias were later called into federal or Confederate service.
- Volunteers: units raised by states or local recruiting for federal or Confederate service. Most soldiers in both armies were volunteers or, in the Confederacy from 1862, conscripts.
Because many units were raised locally, their clothing often reflected local supply and local choices rather than the rules that governed the regular army.
Uniforms in 1861: wide variety
Early-war units often dressed in whatever their state or members could provide. Common features included:
- Zouave-style dress. Some Union and Confederate units adopted short jackets, baggy trousers, and sashes, inspired by French colonial troops in North Africa. Some wore bright red or other unusual trousers. Zouave-style dress was popular in 1861 and faded from use as the war went on.
- Civilian clothing. Some units drilled in ordinary clothes until uniforms arrived.
- Local tailoring. Uniforms were often sewn by local tailors or sewing groups, which produced differences in cut and detail even within one company.
Union militia and the move to standard issue
The federal government gradually moved toward standard clothing through contracts and quartermaster regulations. Until then, state units often kept their own distinct looks. A militia unit called into federal service might bring state-issued clothing with it, and some of that clothing was later replaced.
Collectors should expect variation in early-war Union clothing. A piece that differs from the later standard pattern is not automatically a fake, but it does need documentation before anyone can say what it was.
Confederate militia, grey, and butternut
Confederate militia and volunteer units often wore grey or butternut. Butternut was a brownish-yellow shade, usually made with walnut hulls. Grey was common, but many grey garments faded, were redyed, or were made from mixed cloth. Homespun cloth was common in local issue.
Supply shortages meant that Confederate units often received mixed clothing, including Union items captured in battle. That mixing is one reason Confederate uniforms are hard to classify. See Confederate uniforms: how to tell them apart from Union issue for more on the problem.
What did civilians wear?
Before uniforms arrived, militia members and volunteers usually wore everyday clothing typical of the 1860s: sack coats or frock coats, vests, trousers, and felt or straw hats. Civilian dress also varied by region and by social class.
Photographs of men in civilian clothes can be easy to mistake for uniforms. Look for insignia, buttons, or a documented unit before assuming that a garment was military.
Why did the Confederates have grey uniforms?
The official Confederate color was grey, which was meant to distinguish Confederate troops from Union blue. In practice, the Confederacy had limited dye, cloth, and factory capacity, so grey, butternut, and mixed colors were all common. Accounts differ on the exact reasons grey was chosen, so treat any single explanation with some caution.
Identifying militia-era uniforms
- Cut and construction. Early militia clothing may not match regulation patterns. Look for consistency within the garment rather than a textbook match.
- State or unit marks. Some state militias used state-specific buttons or insignia. Check against references for the state in question.
- Cloth and dye. Wool, cotton, and homespun blends were all used. Dye may have faded or changed, and a grey coat can be a faded blue one.
- Documentation. A documented unit, a dated photograph, or a letter from the owner is worth far more than appearance alone.
Reproductions of militia-style uniforms are common, and “militia” is a popular label for them. Ask for documentation before paying a premium for that label.
Related reading
Insignia on these uniforms is covered in Civil War military insignia and rank identification, since many early units had little standard insignia. Caps from the same period are covered in Civil War kepis: identification and makers’ marks. Buttons are another useful clue, and how to identify Civil War uniform buttons explains how to check them. Before you buy, read where to buy Civil War uniforms.