Short answer: what French soldiers wore in WWII
French soldiers in 1939 and 1940 mostly wore khaki wool service dress, a steel Adrian helmet and a heavy greatcoat. The uniform changed as the war went on. After the armistice of 22 June 1940, the army in metropolitan France operated under restrictions set by its terms. Forces that fought on from outside France, the Free French, were often equipped from British or American stocks. Inside France, Resistance fighters usually had no uniform. They relied on armbands, improvised clothing and symbols such as the Cross of Lorraine.
The sources behind this guide are uneven. Many items sold as “French WWII” are postwar, reissued or reproductions, and we flag those points below.
The French Army in WWII
In 1939 and 1940 the force was simply the French Army (l’Armée de terre). Its uniforms were based on interwar patterns, adjusted for wartime supply. The defeat of 1940 and the armistice that followed reduced the army in metropolitan France. Later changes reflected shortages, the split between Vichy France and the Free French, and the return of French units to the fighting with Allied support.
Army service dress, 1939–1940
Early in the war French forces moved away from the horizon blue of the First World War to heavy khaki-brown and khaki-green wool. Descriptions of the cloth stress dense wool serge. Shades varied between batches, makers and wear, so colour alone is a weak test.
The main items a collector is likely to meet:
- Tunic (vareuse): a wool tunic worn with the greatcoat for everyday duty.
- Trousers: wool trousers or breeches, usually worn with puttees or leather ankle boots. Puttees appear often in photographs but were not universal.
- Belts and equipment: brown leather belts with brass buckles, leather Y-straps, and leather or canvas ammunition pouches.
Headwear: Adrian helmet, forage caps and kepis
The Adrian helmet, a steel helmet with a distinctive profile, was the standard helmet for most infantry. What helmets did they wear in WWII? covers its M26 and M37 versions. Branch insignia were fitted to the front. Off duty and in camp, soldiers wore forage caps (bonnet de police), and kepi-style caps appear throughout period photographs.
The Adrian helmet is also a source of confusion. Several armies used French-pattern Adrians, so a helmet of this shape does not prove French issue by itself. Polish Army uniforms of 1939 describes one such army.
Greatcoats, tunics and puttees
The greatcoat was the heaviest and most visible item. Heavy wool greatcoats were issued for winter, and many patterns are double-breasted. Check the cut, buttons and maker marks against a dated reference. A khaki coat is not automatically 1940 issue, because several patterns were in use over the period.
Summer and North African kit
Warmer postings, including southern France and North Africa, used lighter cotton drill clothing. Collectors see more than one pattern. Compare cloth weight, pocket design and buttons with dated references rather than relying on a single photograph.
After 1940: Free French and Allied-supplied kit
French forces that continued the war outside France were equipped in several ways. Some units received British battledress and Brodie helmets. Others received American helmets, overcoats and other gear under Lend-Lease arrangements. The result is mixed kit. A Free French soldier might wear a British-pattern tunic with French insignia. Free French insignia, including the Cross of Lorraine, are the clearest marker of Free French service.
French units fought alongside Belgian and British troops in the May–June 1940 campaign. For the Belgian side of that fighting, see Belgian WWII uniforms.
The Resistance: improvised dress and symbols
Resistance fighters inside France rarely had official uniforms. Identification came from armbands, or brassards, made from cloth and marked with ink stamps, printed designs or embroidery. Different groups used different designs. The Forces françaises de l’intérieur (FFI) and communist groups such as the FTP-FFI used their own brassards. Many were made locally and are poorly documented.
The Cross of Lorraine became the main symbol of French defiance. It was adopted as a Free French symbol in 1940 and spread through the Resistance, appearing on flags, armbands, printed cloth and walls. Other symbols, such as the Phrygian bonnet, were used by some groups.
Everyday clothing also reflected the occupation. Shortages of silk, leather and wood led many women to improvise. A fashion-history account describes headwear made from fabric scraps and ribbon, sometimes in red, white and blue, as a quiet form of defiance. Parachute silk left after the Normandy landings was reused for clothing and cushions. These pieces are rarely documented, so treat claims about specific items with care.
Identifying genuine pieces
- Establish the category first. Army issue, Free French kit, an FFI armband or a civilian item? The category narrows which references apply.
- Look for maker and inspection marks, but remember that marks can be added later or copied.
- Compare cloth, buttons and insignia with a dated reference. French WWII insignia varied by manufacturer and year.
- Be wary of “Resistance” labels without evidence. Many items are sold with that description and no provenance.