What this guide covers
The German armed forces from 1935 to 1945 were not one uniform system. The Wehrmacht was the umbrella term for the army (Heer), the navy (Kriegsmarine) and the air force (Luftwaffe). The Waffen-SS was a separate armed branch of the SS, and police and Party organizations had their own dress. Many surviving items cross these lines, which is one reason identification takes care.
This guide covers the main uniform types, insignia and field equipment, and points to our more detailed articles on specific items.
The main uniform types
Most collectors meet four broad categories:
- Field uniforms were built for practical wear. Army items were generally field gray. The field tunic (Feldbluse) came in several models; the M36 and the late-war M43 are the best known to collectors.
- Service and dress uniforms were worn in garrison and on formal occasions. They included tunics with branch-colored collars and cuffs, and belts.
- Tropical and desert kit was lighter cotton, used in North Africa and other hot theaters.
- Specialist clothing covered armored crews, paratroopers, mountain troops, and naval or air service. Some of these, such as the black Panzer jacket, are distinctive enough to have their own articles.
Colors by service
Army clothing was generally field gray. The navy wore dark navy blue, the air force wore blue-gray, and armored crews wore black. Shades varied with dye batches, fabric substitution and age, so color alone rarely identifies an item. Our color guide covers this in more detail.
Headgear
Steel helmets. The M35 is the model most people picture. The M40 and M42 were simplified and are common in collections. The main differences are in construction and in the number of decals on the shield. Helmet identification is a specialist field, so check any helmet against a reference before relying on fine details. World War 2 military helmets compares the German models with other nations’ helmets.
Field caps. The M43 field cap is widely collected. Our identification guide covers its shape, piping and markings.
Visor caps. Officers and many NCOs wore peaked caps with branch-colored bands and insignia. Visor caps are often faked, so check the eagle, the cockade and how the band is built.
Insignia
Insignia showed rank, branch and unit. Four types matter most to collectors:
- Rank appeared mainly on shoulder straps for many grades. NCO grades used braid and other markers; see our grenadier and NCO guide.
- Branch color (Waffenfarbe) appeared as piping, collar patches and shoulder board colors. Infantry generally used white, artillery red, Panzer troops pink and pioneers black. Cavalry used gold-yellow and signals used lemon-yellow. Colors were not applied the same way in every period, so confirm them against a reference.
- Cuff titles named specific units on the sleeve for some formations.
- National emblem (the eagle) appeared on tunics and caps, woven or embroidered. See the WWII German eagle badge article.
Award badges and decorations, such as combat badges and the Iron Cross, are a separate field, covered in the WWII German military badges guide.
Field equipment
Field equipment is often easier to find than complete uniforms, and it can help date a collection:
- Belts and buckles. Army belt buckles carried the inscription “Gott mit uns” (“God with us”).
- Ammunition pouches. Pouches for rifle and machine-gun ammunition came in several patterns, so check the pattern against the weapon it was made for.
- Gas mask carriers, mess tins and entrenching tools were part of standard kit.
- Tent sections (Zeltbahn) were issued as shelter and often appear in mixed sets.
- Soldbuch. The soldier’s pay and service book can give useful context on a unit and a person. It is evidence, not a guarantee.
Cavalry equipment
Cavalry still existed in the German army in WWII, although horses were a smaller part of the force. Saddlery, bridles and cavalry sabres are the most common cavalry items. Documentation for specific patterns is thinner than for uniforms, so get an expert view on period origin before buying, because reproductions exist.
Checking authenticity
No single feature proves that an item is genuine. Treat the following as clues to weigh together:
- Markings. Many items carry maker codes (often RZM numbers), size labels or dates. These can be added, copied or faded, so they are clues, not proof.
- Materials and construction. Look at the wool, the lining, the stitching and how insignia is attached. Machine stitching is not automatically a fake, but it should match the period and maker.
- Mixed items. Many pieces are “married”: parts from different uniforms or periods combined into one. A matching insignia set can still be mixed.
- Reference material. Compare items with museum examples and reputable reference books. For high-risk items such as SS pieces, rare variants or complete uniforms, consult a specialist.
Storage and care
Keep items cool, dry and out of direct light. Avoid damp storage and plastic bags that trap moisture. Store wool with acid-free tissue and check regularly for moth damage. Avoid cleaning or ironing old wool yourself, because that can damage fragile fabric and remove evidence of wear. For valuable or fragile pieces, a professional conservator is the safer choice.
Where to go next
- The evolution of German army uniforms shows how the look changed from the Prussian era to the Bundeswehr.
- Kriegsmarine WWII uniforms covers the navy’s dark blue service dress and insignia.
- Waffen-SS uniforms and insignia explains SS-specific insignia and the legal limits on display.
- The Panzer crew black jacket guide covers the distinctive black Panzer uniform.