Where ceremonial dress comes from
Much of Britain’s ceremonial dress is older field and mess dress that stayed in use as a display. Many of its features trace back to the Napoleonic period. The Peninsular War, fought in Spain and Portugal from 1808 to 1814, is one of the most useful starting points, because it was fought by a large British army under Wellington and was recorded in detail.
Ceremonial dress is not frozen. Regiments changed their dress over the years, and what looks old is often a later version of an older design.
The Peninsular War uniforms
Line infantry in the Peninsular War wore red coats. The coat’s collar, cuffs and lapels were in a regimental colour called the facings, which helped identify the regiment on the field and still does on ceremonial dress today. Infantry usually wore a shako, a tall, cylindrical hat, which later gave way to other headgear.
Dress of this period was practical as well as showy. Red was easy to see on the battlefield, and it helped commanders keep formations together. The colour also became a strong symbol of the British soldier.
Rifle green and light infantry
Not every British soldier wore scarlet. Rifle regiments such as the 95th wore dark green and used black leather equipment. Their dress was designed for skirmishing and fieldcraft, where a bright red coat would have been a liability.
Rifle green and the rifle regiments’ traditions influenced later British dress. Many modern rifle regiments still wear dark green for some duties and ceremonies.
Hussar braid and cavalry dress
Light cavalry, including the hussars, wore richly braided jackets. The braid, known as frogging, was an early example of dress that combined practicality with display. Cavalry dress also included plumes, sashes and decorated helmets, which have carried into ceremonial use. Officers’ epaulettes and shoulder cords are another feature of this period that survives on dress uniforms.
Ceremonial survivals
Some of the most visible survivors of this older dress are in the Household Division. The Foot Guards still wear scarlet tunics and bearskin caps on ceremonial duties, including state and royal occasions. The Household Cavalry wear ceremonial dress with plumes and decorated helmets on similar occasions.
Modern ceremonial dress is worn for specific duties, and the everyday uniform is different. Do not assume that a photograph of a guardsman in scarlet shows everyday army dress.
Collecting ceremonial items
Ceremonial items can be rewarding to collect, but they need care:
- Buttons: regimental buttons often carry a crown, a regimental device or a maker’s name. Check the design against a reference and look at the maker’s mark.
- Badges: cap badges, collar badges and plumes show the regiment. Reproductions are common, so compare the finish and the attachment with known examples.
- Dress type: full dress, mess dress and parade dress differ in detail. Identify which one your item belongs to before comparing it.
- Alterations: ceremonial items were often altered for a wearer or for a later period. Record any changes.
Check the item for consistency. A tunic with buttons from one regiment and badges from another is a sign that it has been changed or mixed.
Related reading
For the wider collecting context, see the British and Commonwealth militaria collecting guide. Ceremonial dress often carries medals, so the article on Britain’s most prestigious military decoration is a useful companion, and the British military medals list covers the other awards you may see on a tunic.