The shoulder pieces on military uniforms are most often called epaulettes or epaulets. Depending on their shape and how they attach, they may also be called shoulder boards, shoulder marks or shoulder straps. Each has a different look and a different history, and the terms are not always used the same way across countries.
What an epaulette is
An epaulette is an ornamental shoulder piece with a fringe, usually of metal or bullion. The word comes from French, roughly meaning “little shoulders.” Epaulettes date to the 17th and 18th centuries, when they were used to anchor belts and slings and then came to signal rank.
Rank was shown by where the epaulette sat, its color, and the size and style of its fringe. Epaulettes were most common on dress and ceremonial uniforms, and they were rarely worn in the field. Over time, many armies replaced them with flatter, simpler devices.
Shoulder straps and shoulder boards
A shoulder strap is a flat fabric tab sewn onto the shoulder seam of a shirt, coat or jacket. Straps were originally used to keep belts and other gear from slipping off the shoulder. Today they most often hold a rank device.
A shoulder board is a flat, firm piece that sits on the shoulder seam and displays rank through embroidery or metal insignia. Navies in many countries use shoulder boards, as the Kriegsmarine did for officers, and some armies still do.
In the US, the Army and Air Force use shoulder marks, which are cloth slides or tubes that slip over the shoulder strap and carry stripes or insignia. The Navy’s shoulder boards and the Army’s shoulder marks are different devices, even though they do similar jobs.
Shoulder cords and aiguillettes
Shoulder cords are braided or woven cords looped around the shoulder and pinned to the uniform. The best-known type is the aiguillette. In many armies, aiguillettes mark a staff role, such as an aide-de-camp, or membership in a ceremonial unit. The exact meaning depends on the country and the era, so check the rules for the uniform you are looking at.
Aiguillettes are often confused with epaulettes, but they are cords rather than fringed pieces, and they are worn to show a role rather than a rank.
Shoulder sleeve insignia is a different thing
Shoulder sleeve insignia, often shortened to SSI, is a unit patch worn on the sleeve, not a shoulder piece. Because the word “shoulder” appears in both names, the two are easy to mix up. SSI identifies a unit. Epaulettes, boards and straps show rank or role. For the sleeve patches, see the guide to WWII division patches and shoulder sleeve insignia.
Main parts of a military uniform
A military uniform is made up of several parts, and shoulder pieces are only one. A typical uniform includes headgear, the outer garment or shirt, trousers, footwear, belts and accessories, and the insignia worn on the garment. Insignia may include rank devices on shoulders or sleeves, unit patches, qualification badges and name tags. Dress uniforms usually carry more of the shoulder pieces and metal insignia than field uniforms.
How styles differ across services and uniforms
Shoulder pieces vary by country, service and type of uniform:
- Formal and ceremonial uniforms are the most likely to use fringed epaulettes or bullion-decorated pieces.
- Navy-style uniforms often use shoulder boards.
- US Army and Air Force shirts often use slide-on shoulder marks.
- Canadian usage is looser. In Canada the word “epaulette” is often used informally for the shoulder strap or a slip-on cover, so check the context before you rely on the term.
Historical rank-signaling systems, such as the officers’ shoulder straps covered in Civil War military insignia, varied a great deal, and the specifics depend on the period and the army. If you need to match a piece to a rank, check a dated reference for that army.
Identification tips
- Start with the form. Is it a fringed piece, a flat board, a tab or a cord?
- Check the material. Metal, bullion wire and embroidered cloth suggest different levels of formality and different periods.
- Look at the attachment. Pieces sewn on, pinned on, or slipped over a strap show how the piece was used.
- Compare with a reference. A shoulder piece is hard to name from one photo, so match it against a dated uniform reference.
Care for metal fringe and bullion
Bullion and metal fringe tarnish and can be damaged by moisture and handling. Store pieces flat in acid-free tissue or a padded box, and keep them away from humidity. Do not wash fringed pieces, and do not use metal polish on bullion, which can strip the finish. For valuable or fragile pieces, ask a textile or uniform conservator for advice.