Many searches for WWII German military badges mix up three different things: award badges, rank insignia and national emblems. Award badges are small pieces worn on the uniform to recognise a specific act, qualification or period of service. Rank insignia, such as collar tabs and shoulder boards, show a soldier’s rank and branch. The breast eagle is a national emblem and belongs in its own category. This guide covers award badges and the eagle emblems. If you are looking for rank insignia, you need a different reference, such as the WWII German grenadier and NCO uniforms guide.
Start with the right category
- Award badges recognise an action or qualification. Combat badges, the Wound Badge and specialist badges are in this group.
- Decorations such as the Iron Cross and Knight’s Cross are medals, not badges, though collectors often handle them together.
- Eagles and emblems identify the wearer’s state or service. The breast eagle is the best-known example.
- Rank and branch insignia show status and arm of service and are a separate field.
Keeping these apart will save you from searching the wrong references and from misreading a piece.
The main WWII German badge types
Combat badges
German combat badges recognised participation in front-line fighting. The main ones were:
- Infantry Assault Badge (Infanterie-Sturmabzeichen): instituted in December 1939 for infantry and mountain troops. It came in silver for non-motorised units and, from 1940, in bronze for motorised infantry. The usual criterion was taking part in three separate assaults on different days. The infantry and Panzer assault badges guide covers the grades and how to tell them apart.
- General Assault Badge (Allgemeines Sturmabzeichen): for other arms, such as engineers, artillery and support troops, who took part in assaults on several days.
- Panzer Assault Badge (Panzerkampfabzeichen): for armoured-vehicle crews who took part in combat. Their black uniform is covered in WWII German Panzer crew uniforms.
- Luftwaffe Ground Assault Badge (Erdkampfabzeichen der Luftwaffe): introduced in 1942 for Luftwaffe personnel who fought in ground combat alongside the Army.
- Close Combat Clasp (Nahkampfspange): introduced in November 1942 for hand-to-hand fighting. It came in bronze, silver and gold grades, usually given as 15, 25 and 50 close-combat actions.
Criteria changed over the war, so check any specific requirement against a reference before relying on it.
The Wound Badge
The Wound Badge (Verwundetenabzeichen) was instituted on 1 September 1939. It was awarded for wounds received through enemy action, and it came in black, silver and gold grades. The grade depended on the number of wounds, not on bravery in a particular action. The WWII German Wound Badge guide explains the grades in more detail.
Eagles and national emblems
The breast eagle was worn on the right breast of tunics and on caps. Designs varied by branch, and the state eagle (Reichsadler) and party eagle (Parteiadler) were separate emblems. Collectors call the uniform version the Wehrmacht eagle. For terminology, see what the WWII German eagle is called. For the branch variants, see the WWII German eagle badge article.
Specialist badges
Some badges recognised a specialism rather than combat. The edelweiss was the emblem of mountain troops, and the German Army edelweiss badge article covers the main types and the common identification problems.
Decorations that are not badges
The Iron Cross and the Knight’s Cross are decorations, not badges. Their design and history are covered in the Knight’s Cross and War Merit Cross and in the guide to identifying a real WWII Iron Cross.
Flak badges: Luftwaffe and Army versions
The Luftwaffe Flak Badge (Flak-Kampfabzeichen der Luftwaffe) was instituted in January 1941 for anti-aircraft (flak) crews. Its design includes an anti-aircraft gun within an oak-leaf wreath, with an eagle at the top. Its award criteria were revised during the war, and collectors often describe it with a point system.
Army (Heer) anti-aircraft units had their own badge, so do not assume that every flak badge is Luftwaffe. Compare the design, the eagle style and the issuing service against a reference before you name a piece. Dealer listings often mix the two, so treat a listing’s label as a claim to check.
How to identify a genuine piece
Construction and material
- Most wartime badges were die-struck from zinc or alloy and finished with a silver, bronze or gold wash. Look at whether the piece is one part or built up from several parts, and whether the back is hollow or solid.
- Check the pin and catch. Period hardware is usually soldered or crimped. A modern pin, or glue where a pin should be, is a warning sign.
- Crisp, consistent detail suggests a die-struck original. Soft detail can mean a cast copy, but a worn original can look soft too, so judge it with other evidence.
Markings and RZM numbers
Many wartime makers can be identified by RZM numbers, which take their name from the Reichszeugmeister, the Nazi-era uniform office that assigned them. They appear on many uniform items and some awards. Treat a marking as a clue, not proof. Many genuine badges are unmarked, and marks can be added or copied.
Wear, patina and cleaning
Wear should match the age and handling of the piece. Wear on edges and high points, where a uniform or hand would touch, is consistent with use. Even wear everywhere, or a uniform new look, is a warning sign, though pristine pieces do exist.
Do not polish or re-plate a badge. Cleaning removes the original finish, and the loss usually cuts value more than dirt does.
Married and altered pieces
A married piece combines parts from different sources, such as a genuine badge with a replacement pin. Check that the wear, finish and components agree with one another. Altered pieces, such as a removed or cut-out swastika, need to be described honestly and priced accordingly.
How to tell fake WWII German medals
No single test settles authenticity. The general method in how to tell if a military medal is original applies, and these checks matter most for German pieces:
- Construction: cast copies often have weak detail, poorly fitted parts or paint that has run onto the wrong surfaces.
- Markings: check whether the marks match a known maker’s pattern for the period, and whether they look like they were added later.
- Finish and ribbon: an unusually bright or new-looking finish, or ribbon that looks modern, deserves a closer look.
- Comparison: compare the piece with well-documented examples in museum collections, such as the Imperial War Museum’s online collection.
Be wary of any item that looks too good for its price. A genuine piece can still be a poor-quality example, so separate authenticity from condition.
Authentication: what evidence counts
From strongest to weakest, the evidence usually runs like this:
- A named award document or a photograph of the recipient wearing the piece, from a credible source.
- Known provenance, such as a documented family or institutional collection.
- Physical consistency: construction, finish, wear and components agreeing with one another.
- A dealer’s guarantee and returns policy.
- A certificate of authenticity (COA).
A certificate is a statement by the issuer, not a test result. Check who issued it, whether they have a track record, and whether they would stand by it if the piece was later challenged. Money-back guarantees help, but they are only useful if the seller is still trading and reachable.
Valuing a badge
Value depends on the award type, grade, maker, condition, documentation and provenance. Demand also changes over time. Use recent sold listings and reputable dealers rather than asking prices, and avoid relying on a single price guide or a single listing. If a piece is valuable, get a second opinion from a specialist before you buy or sell.
A note on Nazi-era symbols
In Germany, using and distributing Nazi-era symbols, including the swastika and the eagle with a swastika, is restricted under section 86a of the German Criminal Code. There are exemptions for education, art and history. Rules differ in other countries, and they can also apply to sales, shipping and public display. Check the law where you live and where you buy or sell before you act.
Preserving your collection
- Keep badges away from direct sunlight and from damp or rapid humidity changes.
- Store them in acid-free, inert materials. Avoid PVC, which can damage metal and finishes over time.
- Handle badges by their edges, with clean hands or gloves, to avoid fingerprints and oils.
- Do not polish, re-plate or repaint. Keep any documents, labels or photographs with the item.
- Record provenance, purchase details and a photograph of the piece for your own files.
Where to go next
Each part of this guide has a fuller article in the cluster. Start with the Infantry and Panzer assault badges if you are looking at combat badges, or the Iron Cross identification guide if you are looking at decorations. The WWII German Wound Badge article covers the wound grades, and the eagle badge article covers the emblems.