German Badges and Awards

How to Identify a Real WWII Iron Cross 1939

How to tell a genuine 1939 Iron Cross from a fake: construction, magnet tests, paint, maker marks, patina, ribbon and documentation, and where each check misleads.

On this page
  1. What the 1939 Iron Cross is
  2. Start with the construction
  3. The magnet test and why it is only a clue
  4. Paint and the frame
  5. Wear and patina
  6. Maker marks
  7. Ribbon, case and documents
  8. Buying safely
  9. Related reading

Identifying a 1939 Iron Cross takes several checks used together, because no single test settles it. Some features suggest a genuine piece, some can be faked, and a few genuine crosses fail a test that people expect them to pass. This guide explains what each check tells you and where it can mislead.

What the 1939 Iron Cross is

The Iron Cross was renewed as a German decoration on 1 September 1939. For most recipients, the common grades were the 2nd Class, worn at the buttonhole on a ribbon, and the 1st Class, pinned to the breast. The 1939 design carries the date 1939 on the front, at the lower arm, and a swastika at the centre. The reverse carries 1813 on the lower arm, which refers to the year the Iron Cross was founded.

Knowing the standard layout helps you spot an obvious error, such as a wrong date or a missing feature. It does not on its own show that a cross is genuine.

Start with the construction

Many genuine crosses were built up from several parts, typically a central core and two frame halves joined around it. This construction usually leaves a visible join around the edge of the frame. Look for that join, and check that the frame and core fit together as you would expect for the period.

A one-piece casting is not automatically fake, but it is a reason to look more closely at the other checks. Compare the construction against a reliable reference before you draw a conclusion.

The magnet test and why it is only a clue

The iron core of many genuine crosses is magnetic, so a magnet can be a useful first check. The test has two limits, though. Some genuine crosses were not magnetic, because they were made with non-magnetic cores. And some high-quality reproductions are magnetic. A magnetic cross is consistent with a genuine piece, and a non-magnetic one is not proof of a fake. Use the magnet test with the other checks, never on its own.

Paint and the frame

The core is painted black. Genuine construction usually keeps that paint on the core, with the silver frame clean around it. Paint that has run onto the silver frame can suggest that a copy was moulded or assembled after painting. Wear and touch-ups also happen on genuine crosses, so look at the pattern of the paint rather than a single mark.

Wear and patina

Look for wear that fits the age and use of the cross. Edges and high points that show rubbing, and aged silver, are consistent with a genuine piece. Very even wear, glossy paint, or a bright new look are warning signs. Some originals are pristine, so use the look of the cross as one check among several.

Maker marks

Many 1939 crosses carry maker marks, usually numbers or letters. A mark can help date a piece and attribute it to a maker. But many genuine crosses are unmarked, and marks can be added, copied or moved. Judge a mark against the rest of the cross, as you would when telling an original medal from a replica, and check it against a reliable list of maker marks rather than a single listing.

Ribbon, case and documents

Period ribbon ages. It fades and loses its sheen, so a bright, glossy ribbon deserves a closer look, though ribbons were often replaced. A period case with the correct fittings adds to the picture. Documents, such as an award document or a photograph of the recipient wearing the cross, are the strongest evidence of all. A certificate of authenticity is a statement by the issuer, so check who issued it and whether they would stand by it.

Buying safely

  • Buy from a dealer who offers a clear guarantee and a returns policy, and read the terms.
  • Ask for a second opinion from an independent specialist or a collector group before you commit.
  • Be cautious of a price that seems too good for a 1939 cross with strong documentation. The factors behind military medal values apply here too.
  • Keep records of the purchase, the dealer and any certificate.

For the higher grades and the Knight’s Cross, see the Knight’s Cross and War Merit Cross. For the design’s origin in the Teutonic cross, see what the Teutonic cross means. The 1939 Iron Cross carries a swastika, and the legal notes in the WWII German military badges guide apply to it. Germany restricts the display and sale of Nazi-era symbols, so check the law before you buy, sell or display one.

The complete guide to german badges and awards

WWII German Military Badges: Identification and Authentication
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