The steel helmet is one of the most recognizable pieces of WWII equipment, and one of the most often reproduced. Each major fighting nation used its own design, and several designs changed during the war as materials ran short. This guide covers the main helmets, how to tell them apart, and the factors that affect value. For a shorter answer to which helmets each nation wore, see what helmets did they wear in WWII?
The main helmets at a glance
- German Stahlhelm: adopted as the M35 in 1935, with changes in 1940 and 1942 that collectors often label M40 and M42.
- British Mk II: adopted in 1939 as a modernized version of the WWI Brodie helmet.
- Soviet SSh-40: adopted in 1940. Earlier SSh-36 and SSh-39 helmets were also in use.
- French Adrian: the M26 and M37 versions, both descended from the WWI design.
- Japanese Type 90: the Army’s steel helmet, marked Type 90 and often called the M30 by collectors.
- US M1: adopted in 1941 and worn by ground troops for the rest of the war.
The German Stahlhelm
The German helmet is among the best-known designs of the war. Its shape covers the back of the head and the forehead, with a flared rim and a neck flap. The early M35 shells were made from alloy steel, which was harder to produce and more expensive. In 1940 the Germans changed the alloy and made the vent holes by pressing rather than fitting them separately. In 1942, with steel for tanks taking priority, the steel was made softer and the rim was simplified. Those changes are the basis of the M40 and M42 labels. For the helmet’s place in German kit, see the WWII German uniforms and equipment guide.
The US M1 helmet
The M1 was adopted in 1941 and worn by ground troops through the war. Its shell was made of manganese steel, and it carried a separate liner, which provided the suspension, and a chin strap. Shells differed in small ways during production, including the metal bale on top of the shell, which came in fixed and swivel types. For how US soldiers used the M1 and its variants, see what helmets did Americans use in WWII?
Maker and date stamps on the shell’s underside and rim are among the strongest identification tools. Check them before you check the liner.
Other national helmets
- British Mk II: a modernized WWI Brodie. It gave less cover to the back of the head, the ears and the neck than the German design, but it was widely used through the war.
- Soviet SSh-40: made of thin alloy steel, and part of the kit covered in Soviet WWII uniforms and insignia. The earlier SSh-36 had a crest on top, and the SSh-39 used fewer liner clenches than the SSh-40.
- French Adrian: a four-part design with front and back peaks. Poland and Belgium also used it, as Polish Army uniforms of 1939 explains. The M26 was a 1926 update, and the M37 changed the front emblem.
- Japanese Type 90: an oval steel helmet with a leather liner. The front emblem differed by service: a star for the Army and an anchor for the Navy and Marines.
How to identify a helmet
- Start with the shape and the rim. Shape usually tells you the country before any markings do.
- Check the shell, not just the liner. Liners were often replaced or swapped, so a liner can be from a different helmet.
- Look for stamps and decals. Maker codes, dates and insignia on the shell are the most useful clues. Some were painted and have worn.
- Examine the parts as separate items. Chin straps, covers and liners may not match the shell.
- Expect replicas. Modern replicas are sold widely and can be very detailed. Compare weight, color and finish with period photos and reference books.
What affects value
There is no single value that fits every helmet, and the same model can sell for very different amounts depending on the details. Collectors and dealers usually look at:
- Originality: whether the shell, liner and chin strap are period and match each other.
- Condition: rust, dents, cracks and repainting all matter.
- Markings: clear, correct maker and date stamps.
- Documentation: a known unit or owner adds interest.
- Reproduction risk: a helmet that is hard to authenticate is harder to sell.
For current prices, check recent sold listings rather than asking prices. Before buying or selling an expensive helmet, get an opinion from a knowledgeable dealer or appraiser.
Caring for a helmet
Store helmets in a dry place. Do not wrap them in plastic, which traps moisture. Do not sand or polish a helmet, since that removes the original finish and can blur stamps. For light rust, ask a conservator before doing anything. Keep liners, chin straps and covers with the shell, and store any damp materials separately.