Patches are usually grouped in two ways: by how they are made, which is their construction, and by how they are attached, which is their backing. Collectors care most about construction, because it changes with the period and the purpose of a patch. The same design can be embroidered in one era and woven or printed in another.
Embroidered patches
Embroidered patches have thread stitched onto a backing fabric, usually twill or felt. The thread gives a raised, textured look. Traditional unit patches, many morale patches and much insignia are embroidered. The edge is finished either with a machine-stitched border, often called a merrowed edge, or with a cut edge. The number of stitches limits how fine the detail can be.
Hand-embroidered patches are less uniform. Their stitches vary in direction and spacing, and that difference is one of the first things a collector looks for.
Woven patches
Woven patches use finer threads woven together rather than stitched on top of a base. The surface is flat and smooth, which suits small lettering and fine detail. Woven labels and woven unit insignia are examples. Woven patches are often cut to shape and sealed at the edge.
PVC and rubber patches
PVC and rubber patches are molded from flexible plastic or rubber. They are water-resistant and durable, and they can have raised, molded detail in two or three dimensions. Modern tactical and outdoor patches often use PVC, so a PVC patch is usually a clue to a more recent or practical use, not a historical one.
Printed, chenille, bullion and leather patches
- Printed or sublimated patches have the image dyed or printed onto fabric. They allow many colors and photographic detail, and they are common in modern subdued and mission patches.
- Chenille patches use a looped, fuzzy yarn pile. They are more typical of civilian and school use than of military insignia.
- Bullion patches are made with metallic wire stitched by hand or machine on felt or wool. They are formal and expensive, and they appear mainly on dress insignia and crests.
- Leather patches are less common for military insignia. When they appear, they tend to be decorative or commercial.
Backings and attachment methods
The backing shows how a patch was meant to be attached:
- Sew-on backings are the most durable and the most traditional. Original sewn-on patches are valuable to collectors because the stitching and backing can show period and use.
- Hook-and-loop (Velcro) backings let a patch be swapped out easily. They are common on tactical gear and on morale patches.
- Iron-on backings use a heat-activated adhesive. They are convenient, but they are less secure over time, and they often indicate commercial or later production.
- Adhesive or peel-and-stick backings are temporary or semi-permanent and suit smooth surfaces such as equipment.
Backings are useful clues, but they do not settle a date on their own. The guide to dating a military patch by its backing and stitching explains how to read them alongside other evidence.
Why construction matters to collectors
Construction and backing can point toward a period, a purpose and a source:
- A unit patch from a historical period is often embroidered or woven, with a sewn-on backing.
- A tactical or morale patch is more often PVC, printed or hook-and-loop backed.
- A patch with a modern iron-on backing may be a commercial product, even if it carries a military design.
Military design alone does not tell you whether a patch is official. Compare the construction, backing and design with a dated reference before drawing a conclusion. For a broader introduction to patches and insignia, see the guide to military patches, badges and insignia. For how morale patches are used and worn, see how do morale patches work.